By Jill Lust, Food Editor
Mezcal 101: First of all, lets talk agave, because more than likely it's what you have heard the plant called from which mezcal is made (tequila being one type). But in Oaxaca, the heart of mezcal production, it's called maguey. Over a hundred different species grow in the region, a dozen of which are most commonly used to make mezcal. The labor intensive process involves planting and harvesting, roasting and mashing, and distilling and re-distilling. There is also bottling, labeling and distribution. Many small producers sell their product to a larger label company, just like in the wine business. Others set up a tienda (small store) to sell in their region. It is possible to visit dozens of such places within a pueblo or two on the Ruta del Mezcal, the Mezcal Route. While tequila has better name recognition, it's actually a type of mezcal made from blue agave, while mezcal is any spirit distilled from agave or maguey. Once difficult to find outside of Mexico, chances are you can find at least a mezcal brand or two in just about any liquor store. As the saying goes, Por todo mal, mezcal. Por todo bien tambien!
We recently made several trips to Santiago Matatlán to interview this month's featured Mexicanistas, women who own and operate the artisanal Mezcal Desde La Eternidad. Inevitably we always returned with a few bottles of mezcal. We certainly couldn't drink it all, so I cooked with some and we threw a party.
The recipes are simple but packed with bold bright flavors that highlight the diversity of the spirit. Enjoy responsibly or not...
Three way Mezcal Marinade
Create three distinctively flavored dishes using slight variations of one simple marinade. Add chipotle for pork, garlic for shrimp, or thicken and add butter for the roasted vegetables. Please note the marinade times as this is a "quick marinade." If you leave your protein in for too long, the acid will start to cook it.
Marinade Base
3/4 cup fresh squeezed orange juice
1/4 cup grapefruit juice
1/4 cup lemon and/or lime juice
1 tablespoon orange and/or lemon zest
1/2 cup diced onion
1/4 cup mezcal
1 tablespoon agave syrup
Chipotle Mezcal Pork Tacos with Root Vegetable Slaw
1 batch marinade base
1 canned chipotle pepper in adobe sauce, diced
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 pound thinly sliced pork tenderloin or loin
Combine all ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.
For the slaw you will need:
2 medium carrots, trimmed and cleaned
1 small jicama, peeled
6 radishes, trimmed and cleaned
6 sprigs cilantro, cleaned
Cut the root vegetables into small matchstick sized pieces (or coarsely shred). Using kitchen shears, snip cilantro (leaves and stems) into small pieces. Stir together just before serving.
To cook the pork, heat a large heavy skillet over meduim high heat. Add a tablespoon of cooking oil to skillet. Remove pork from marinade mixture using a slotted spoon. Add to the heated skillet. Cook without stirring for about 3 minutes or until pork is well browned on bottom. Stir remaining marinade mixture into the skillet. Bring to a boil. Turn off heat and allow pork mixture to rest a few minutes before serving with tortillas and slaw.
Makes 4 servings
Mezcal Marinaded Prawns with Wilted Greens
1 batch marinade base
4 cloves fresh garlic, smashed, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound large prawns or shrimp in the shell, de-veined
6 ounces (about 4 cups) mixed sturdy braising greens such as kale, spinach, chard and/or chickory, cleaned with any tough stems removed.
Combine all ingredients except for the greens in a large non-metal bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 1-3 hours.
1. Preheat a grill or outdoor comal until sizzling hot.
2. Remove shrimp from the marinade onto a platter.
3. Pour marinde into a saucepan and place over medium low heat until mixture comes to a boil and thickens slightly. This can be done while the shrimp are cooking.
4. Place shrimp directly on the grill grates or the hot comal. Cook for about 2 minutes on each side or until skins are charred and the flesh of the shrimp is opaque.
5. Place greens on a large serving platter and top with shrimp. Allow marinade to cool slightly after boiling. Pour over shrimp and greens to serve.
Makes 4 servings
Mezcal Butter
This sauce is great on roasted vegetables, rice and fish, or just about anything! What you don’t use will keep nicely in the fridge or freeze for later use.
Adjust the acho chili powder to your desired heat level. If you can’t find sal de gusańo, substitute with Old Bay seasoning. Don’t switch the ancho chili power for regular “American style” chili powder as the ancho lends a distinctive flavor that defines the dish.
Start with 1 batch of marinade base.
1/2 cup (one stick) of unsalted butter.
1 teaspoon sal de gusańo (or Old Bay seasoning).
1 teaspoon ancho chili powder
1. Cook the marinade base (stirring frequently) in a medium saucepan over medium heat until mixture is reduced by nearly half. Whisk in butter, sal de gusańo and ancho chili powder.
2. Reduce heat and simmer for 2-3 more minutes.
Makes about 1 1/2 cups of sauce.
Blackberry Hibiscus Mezcalita
1/2 cup dried Hibiscus flowers (jamaica)
1/2 cup blackberries
4 thin slices fresh ginger
1/4 cup dark brown sugar
1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
2 cups water
1 cup fresh squeezed orange juice
6 ounces (4 shots) mezcal
4 cups ice
12 blackberries
4 orange slices
4 basil blossoms or edible flowers
Combine first 6 ingredients in a medium sauce pan. Bring mixture to boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Use whisk or spoon to muddle the blackberries in the mixture. Cover and cool to room temperature.
Strain cooled mixture into a pitcher. Add orange juice and mezcal. Refrigerate until cold.
Divide blackberries between 4 rocks glasses. Fill each with ice and chilled drink mixture.
Garnish with orange slices and flowers.
Mezcal notes: Use a tepeztate if you can find it, or a tobalá. No worries if you can’t. It’s delicious with any good mezcal.
Fire Roasted Mezcal Spiked Michelada with Hand Spanked Sage
Yes I am serious (and also poking a little fun at the seriously serious high art of cocktail crafting) but this trick is a keeper. Once you try it you’ll know why, and are sure to impress at your next cocktail-based gathering. Spanking your sage is simple. Just place one leaf flat on the palm of your hand and give it a smack with the palm of your other hand, sandwiching it between your palms. You will instantly get the fragrance of the oils released. One small leaf per drink will do. Place it on top just before serving and smell what happens.
1 cup canned fire roasted tomatos (or knock yourself out and roast your own)
6 slices picked jalapeno
1 shot mezcal
1 Mexican pilsner style beer (we used Victoria)
6 cherry tomatoes
2 slices cooked bacon
2 sage leaves
Puree the first 3 ingredients in a blender. Add beer and 2 cups of ice cubes. Stir well with a long handled spoon. Strain the mixture into 2 chilled glasses.
Garnish with cherry tomaoes skewered on a steak knife. Add a strip of bacon and the aforementioned sage leaf. And wait … for the compliments.
Mezcal note: We used a bacon infused mezcal from Desde La Eternidad. For that you’ll have to come to Oaxaca, but any smokier variety will work. Add bacon slice to achieve the same flavor profile.
Rosemary Citrus Fizz
1/2 cup water
2 tablespoons lemon flavored gelatin
2 teaspoons sugar
1 sprig of rosemary
1 cup ice cubes
2 tablespoons fresh squeezed lemon juice
1/2 cup grapefruit soda
2 ounces mezcal
Heat water to boiling in a medium sauce pan. Add gelatin and sugar, stir until dissolved.
Remove mixture from heat. Add a one-inch piece of rosemary sprig. Set mixture aside to cool slightly. Remove rosemary sprig.
Combine ice, lemon juice, grapefruit soda and mezcal in a large cocktail shaker or pitcher.
Add cooled gelatin mixture. Shake well and strain into 2 tall glasses. Garnish with rosemary and lemon slices.
Mezcal notes: For this you’ll want a joven espadín that is not smoky. If you find an herb infused mezcal, you can skip adding rosemary to the syrup mixture and use it just as a garnish.
Mocha Mex-Spiced and Spiked Hot Chocolate
Mezcal spiked Mochalatte
8 ounces Mexican spiced chocolate, chopped
1 cup strong brewed coffee
2 cups coconut or almond milk
6 ounces (4 shots) crema de mezcal, such as Del Maguey
Combine first 3 ingredients in a medium sauce pan. Cook and stir over medium low heat until chocolate is melted. Whisk in the crema de mezcal until mixure is hot and frothy.
Pour into 4 mugs. Garnish with cinnamon sticks and grated chocolate if desired.